Sierra Dew sits poised to create, a stencil in one hand and the naturally dyed organic cotton fabric that will soon be a signature Sierra Dew skirt in the other. As she presses the stencil firmly onto the fabric, the bold lines from her pattern unfold, reflecting her vision of art, of Hawai'i and of society. Dew isn't just working to create a skirt, nor a piece of art, she is working to create a better world, a more sustainable world with a message brought to life through her unique designs.
After three years of fiber arts and fashion design classes at U.H. at Manoa, local artist and sustainable fashion designer Sierra Dew realized that her zeal for marrying fashion with art was more than a hobby and more than a job, it was her ultimate passion. She went on to receive a fashion design degree in Italy before returning home to Pa'ia, Maui to share her forward-looking designs with the community that raised her.
Sierra Dew is one of many talented local designers making a name for sustainable fashion in Hawai'i. Dew not only creates beauty, she considers the environmental and social impact of her designs with a hip and addictive focus of accountability in every aspect of her work.
From the inception of her first collection, she knew she wanted to have some type of print going on in her designs. "I started experimenting a little with stenciling and found a stenciling class at the Hui No'eau Visual Arts Center, which has an extensive print program with amazing emerging and established artists," explains Dew. "I was hooked."
In September 2009 Dew traveled to Melbourne, Australia for the Stencil Festival, where she was immerged in some of the most inspiring street art in the world. Famous graffiti artist Haha introduced Dew to Blender Studios, a shared studio of about 15 artists working in all different mediums. Upon returning from her eye-opening trip, Dew began to heavily reflect on the controversial issues we face daily and a manifestation occurred not only in her soul, but also in her work.
"It was amazing to see such a thriving arts community in Melbourne and it really made me want to be part of creating that here in Hawai'i," says Dew.
Dew has always used handmade stencils as the starting point of all of her designs and she plans to keep it that way. Anyone savvy in urban art would tell you that stenciling is the most popular form of public expression in the world. Stenciling has been successful in communicating powerful messages to the people since the beginning of civilization. From prehistoric cave patterns to storm drain stenciling programs, this special yet practical form of artwork has a long history of public appearance across cultures. Important ideas and information can be simplified down to a black and white image and most importantly for Dew, stenciling provides a natural, non-toxic method for creating endless designs.
In sharp contrast to stenciling, many screen-printing companies use toxic plastisol and water-based inks. Plastisol ink is manufactured to react with other chemicals to create dioxins, PCBs and other toxic compounds. In addition, the plasticizers used to make this ink flexible are carcinogenic and continue to be released even after you have purchased the product. Water-based inks can be misleading to customers who usually assume this means eco-friendly, but many water-based inks can also be classified as hazardous. So, even if you have purchased an organic hemp or cotton shirt, your purchase may not be as environmentally friendly as you think it is.
"When I started creating my designs for commercial sales, I wasn't having luck finding a local company using eco-friendly inks." Dew explains her process, "I have been hand painting my clothing with 100-percent, non-toxic acrylic paint mixed with a textile medium. It washes the same as a screen-print, but it doesn't contain the toxins. I hand cut stencils, which I then place onto the fabric and paint through to the fabric.
"Its empowering to make stencils knowing the strength and purity they carry and the effect that have had throughout history," Dew continues. "Using stencils has really given me the chance to experiment with my skills. There are a few new products coming out that offer non-toxic screen-printing, but for the majority of screen-printing companies, toxins are still hiding out and contaminating the expensive organic shirts they are being printed on, so don't be fooled."
Through her art, Dew is hopeful that she can spread a message of beauty and awareness. She does not shy away from controversial issues, but instead continues to infuse her art with social commentary, building community support and awareness for sustainable-textile and eco-fashion, which she is confident will soon be the norm, not just another seasonal fad.